The organisation by Pioneer was excellent, and our guide and driver, Hari and Pica, took great care of us every step of the way to ensure that we were safe, and seeing as much as possible. As other reviewers have said, the transport infrastructure is truly awful, and there are long periods of time in the car bouncing very slowly towards your destination. Our most memorable moment will definitely be the train derailment (very slow and not at all scary). The train crew manoeuvred the carriage about 2m back onto the rails over the course of the next 6 hours and off we went again. However, the people are wonderful! Almost everyone you pass smiles and greets you. Children are delighted if you take a photo of them and show them - and you will quickly gather a crowd around you if you are prepared to show them photos of other things that you have seen. I wish I had taken some pens, as many of the children asked if I had a pen that I could give them for school. The determination, positive attitude and resourcefulness of people who have next to nothing is incredible. For mile after mile every usable inch of land is cultivated, back-breakingly by hand, or occasionally by ox (zebu). The clay is dug out to form paddy fields, and turned into bricks, dried in enormous piles by the roadside. We saw people sawing wood into planks by hand, and met children as young as 6 or 7 walking 30km to market. The highlight was, of course, the lemurs: a night walk to see the mouse lemur; ring tailed lemurs sunworshipping on a rock; but also cycling through crowded streets dodging rickshaws, ox carts, potholes and pedestrians; the visit to the zebu market; the wood carvers (who created their own saws out of steel recovered from car tyres, bashed flat and then teeth hand cut into it); the people sand casting cooking pots out of recycled aluminium. Some tolerance is required when things don't go to plan, and you do need a good level of fitness for this particular tour - the cycling is off-road at altitude and (at least when we did it) twice as far as advertised; the walk out from canoeing carrying all your personal kit was hot, and the walk round Tsaranora included a 500m climb. It's definitely off the beaten track, and there aren't many other tourists around which is great, but the time between activities (on those roads) can be very long.
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Pioneer, who were very supportive both before and during the trip. Madagascar itself is a unique destination, and an amazing experience.
Thank you so much Vanessa